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CRAVINGS – What’s Old is “Nous”

Cravings
What’s Old is “Nous”
A Restaurant for Food, Drink, Coming Together, and Slowing Down

Story by Andrea Jacoby O’Shell
Photography by Ezra Marcos

 

Just south of Ashland’s city center, a white brick building gleams proudly, with the hand-written script of owner and artist Julie VandenBerg in contrasting black letters spelling, “Nous.” The “s” in the scripted logo creates a nest or a circle that encompasses the meaning of the French word, translating to “us” or “we.” That word is the heart of the restaurant. In a world where “we” so often becomes “I,” Nous allows us to slow down and be transported to a place where we can come together, and enjoy each other’s company over thoughtfully crafted food and drink in beautiful surroundings. 

The Trickle-Down Effect

So often when we dine out, it’s easy to forget about what happens behind the scenes in a restaurant. Owners Charlie Hutchinson, Molly Shaughnessy, and Julie VandenBerg brought their half-century experience in hospitality together to bootstrap their dream restaurant. Hutchinson is the son of a Foreign Service Officer, an experience that immersed him in international cuisine from childhood. Shaughnessy graduated from Southern Oregon University (SOU) and then moved to Germany in 2013 for two years, deepening her love for its culture and cuisine. VandenBerg moved to Ashland in 2000, where she raised her children as a single mother while running an art studio by day and working in local restaurants by night. Eventually, Hutchinson, Shaughnessy, and VandenBerg found each other working at Ashland’s beloved Amuse Restaurant, which closed in 2022. Even though they all went their separate ways after Amuse closed, they stayed in touch and kept the dream alive for a restaurant to integrate their beliefs and support the community. 

“We want to prioritize treating our staff fairly and equitably, as well as creating a safe place for customers from all walks of life,” VandenBerg says with conviction. “We want our restaurant to be a gathering space that inspires people to come together, to be inspired together, to learn new things and to be creative together, and even to deal with the hard things in life together.” That’s the trickle-down effect. They want you to experience true joy from the colors on the walls, to the food on your plate, to the curated wine list, to the genuine smile from the server who is happy to see you, whether it’s the first time or the 20th time. 

Culture and Candor

The bright red double doors of Nous beam, echoing the colors of the Alsatian flag. Upon entering, shades of green, yellow, and pink evoke a charming French cafe. “I love the look of pink and green French cafés, and thought it would be fun to invoke a bit of that, along with some wood elements. Molly’s uncle built our fine-looking cherry wood bar shelving, and it really brings things together,” says VandenBerg. 

Booths dressed with plush cushions and linen tablecloths bring texture to the space alongside charming paintings of fairytale-like creatures you might find in an old castle nestled among the grapevines of Alsace. Large tables invite families and friends to relax, and the sprawling bar with vintage lights invites the weary traveler or the local frequent flyer. Outside, a patio with tables and fire pits anxiously awaits cool, fall evenings that will host Oktoberfest celebrations and a relaxing Sunday morning brunch. There is a seat at the table for everyone. Shaughnessy states, “We want to welcome our guests with open arms, as if they are coming home.” 

VandenBerg, a lifelong Pacific Northwesterner, knew art was her calling and attended art school at Cornish College of the Arts in Seattle for painting and printmaking. She later finished her Bachelor of Fine Arts at SOU. So it makes sense that her artistic side requests you move around Nous with ease and drink in the space, literally and figuratively. “Feel free to peruse the art upon our walls while enjoying a cocktail at the bar, or perhaps you’re feeling brunchy on the patio on a sunny day with a light breeze,” she says cheerily. “Stop in for our Apéro hour and enjoy a spritz; learn about vermouths and sherries while enjoying a light snack. Or stay for a more elaborate dinner experience.” Every experience at Nous is, well, new! 

Sunshine in a Bottle

The French proverb, “A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine,” is certainly something we could all learn to live by, and one Nous happily embraces. Shaughnessy carefully curates an exceptional wine and cocktail menu underscored by her certifications. She is a Certified Sommelier, Certified Cicerone, and a Level III in Spirits through the Wine and Spirits Education Trust. Her priority is making guests feel at ease. Shaughnessy’s calm and sweet demeanor shines as she says, “Ask questions! I am there most nights, and I have been working with my team to learn the [wine] list. We love to guide you into the most perfect bottle.” 

While the wine list is crafted with love and passion, “like a poem,” Shaughnessy still has her favorites. Diners can tend to gravitate toward red wines with their meat-forward meal, but the Alsatian white wines and exceptional sparkling wines (Crémant), are the real heroes alongside European comfort food. The wine that currently has Shaughnessy’s heart is “Alsatian Pinot Gris from Zind-Humbrecht’s Vendange Tardive Clos Jebsal (2012). I love it because it is so unlike any of the other basic b*tch pinot gris you might see at a grocery store.” She states with confidence, “Alsatian Pinot Gris is unbelievably food friendly, agreeable, and complex. It has layers upon layers and changes as you enjoy it.”

Traditionally Untraditional

Hutchinson’s talents shine as he thoughtfully blends Alsace’s unique combination of French and German cuisine. His training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris allows him to merge the hardiness and comfort of hand-stuffed sausages, heritage sauces, and, of course, homemade spätzle. This is juxtaposed by the finesse and elegance of French cuisine with seasonal vegetables, fresh fish, and perfectly flaky pastry. But Hutchinson isn’t one to stay in the box and loves to experiment. “Constitutionally, I am a traditionalist with authority issues, so make of that what you will,” He says, “Culinary traditions and knowing the history of cultural exchange provide a valuable framework, and I see more cooks rejecting this—for better and for worse.” His favorite dish on the menu currently is the Black Cod Matelote and tomato salad. All of the ingredients tell their own story, sourced as locally as possible. Fish from Brookings, tomatoes from Troon Vineyard and Ella Bella Farms, and berries from Pennington Farms. 

Seeing Hutchinson’s mind at work and then come alive on a plate, is almost otherworldly. He manages to make the portions feel bountiful, but not overwhelming. There is a cornucopia of colors on every plate, and myriad textures to delight all your senses. And he’s always experimenting. “I like breaking culinary rules, and find great value in intentionally messing up tried and true techniques. The only way you really get to know a material is by seeing what its capacities are, whether it be an ingredient or method.” However, at the end of the day, “The team we’ve assembled is what keeps me motivated. Their hard work and dedication to what we’re trying to build here keeps me going,” Hutchinson says proudly, “They show up excited to work and learn, and I don’t want to let them down.”

There’s no “I” in Team

Hutchinson, Shaughnessy, and VandenBerg know that the food, drink, and decor have to be great, but they also know it is meaningless without a solid team. In a world of constant motion and social media noise, it’s easy to forget the importance of human connection. The team at Nous aims to return the human element to the forefront of the restaurant experience—from both sides of the table. “We hope that we can be an inspiration to other restaurants in Ashland and eventually the world,” Shaughnessy says. “Restaurants are not a thriving business category right now, but with investment into their teams, we know there’s hope.”

Nous is more than a restaurant; it is a place to gather and feel a sense of community, according to VandenBerg. “I would love for the community to view us as not only a restaurant, but as a center for ever-changing and inspiring events where people can meet to connect with one another and share ideas.” And it doesn’t stop there; they are committed to fostering their team with education, a living wage, and a work/life balance that avoids the burnout so often seen in the restaurant industry. So, grab your friends and family, your favorite dirndl or lederhosen, and be transported to a place where time moves just a little bit slower. Prost!

If you’d like to learn more about burnout in the restaurant industry, visit theburntchefproject.com

358 E Main St, Ashland

541-215-4402

www.nous.maison

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